Extension Spring System

Extension spring systems use springs that stretch and retract to close and open your garage door. They extend along both horizontal tracks and are secured with a safety cable through the center.

While extension springs are less expensive than torsion systems, they require more parts and usually more maintenance. One advantage to this type of system is that each side of a spring system works independently so it can compensate for an uneven ground.

Older homes typically use extension systems because they have limited head room in the garage. Garage door openers were invented in 1926, but didn’t become popular until the 60s, so many garages weren’t built with them in mind. If you currently have an extension system, it’s recommended that you stick with that rather than reworking your whole garage spring system.

Torsion Spring System

Torsion springs are mounted on a torsion tube above your garage door horizontally and are wound up to create torque, or tension. As the door closes, cables attached to the bottom corners force the springs to wind up. When the door opens, the springs unwind and the tension transfers to lift the door open.

Torsion springs are generally safer than extension springs in terms of operation because they’re contained on a torsion tube. However, you should never try to wind, repair or replace a torsion spring by yourself. Because they are under such extreme tension, they can cause serious injury so always call a professional. They do tend to be a little more expensive.

Torsion systems work best if the ground in the garage door opening is completely level. You also need 12 inches above the door to mount the spring, so many times there is not room for a torsion system on an older home. Torsion systems are often recommended for heavier doors, but are required for all doors over 8 feet tall.

Radius

The track radius is the curved part of your track that transfers the door from the vertical position to the horizontal position, or vice versa. The distance between the top of your door opening and the lowest point on your ceiling determines the maximum size of the radius for your track. Typically, the larger the radius, the smoother and more quietly your door will travel from open to close. Similar to a long winding road versus a road with a sharp switchback, the angle is approached more gradually and can be more easily managed.

The radius of your garage door track can impact everyday situations in your garage. If you have an elevated entryway door to your home in your garage, a radius that is too small could cause the track to run through the eye-line and be an eyesore, as well as potentially dangerous. You’ll also want to consider the radius if you use your garage for everyday car parking. A radius that is too small for the height of your vehicle could cause your trunk or car door to hit the track, motor rail or open garage resulting in damage.

Your Door Designer will do a proper measurement while at your home for a consultation but if you want to get a sense if a different radius is a possibility in your garage, you can try it yourself. Stand one foot back from the opening of your garage. While there, measure the vertical distance from the top opening of your garage door to the lowest point in your garage. The minimum headroom necessary is noted at the end of each track description below.

Goal Posts

This term describes the wood around your garage door frame inside your garage. The track and other garage door parts are mounted to the goal posts to keep the track secure and steady. It’s important that the woodwork around the garage door is in good condition and has no damage. If the bottom of the goal posts have rotted due to water damage, or the boards have split because the mounting holes for your current track were not pre-drilled, you will need to replace them.

Spending a small amount now to have your garage door installer replace the woodwork can help maintain the lifespan and safety of your door. Faulty woodwork can endanger the quality of your garage door materials and potentially any people, pets, or objects in the garage.

Headerboard

The header is the section of wall above your garage door opening that maintains the structural integrity of the opening, while a headerboard is a specific piece of lumber that creates a solid surface in the absence of a strong header area. Both are a mounting area for the motor rail and in some cases, torsion tube. The headerboard is far less likely to need to be replaced than a goal post as it isn’t exposed to water, however if it is cracked or not mounted securely, it may need to be replaced to ensure your garage door runs smoothly.

Rollers

The rollers of your garage door move along the track as the door opens or closes. They can impact a door’s operational smoothness or noise level.

- GOOD: Steel rollers create a loud garage door because of the metal on metal contact with the track.

- BETTER: Plastic rollers are not as loud, but there is no bearing so there’s nothing to lubricate to help the door operate smoothly.

- BEST: Nylon rollers are quiet as they roll along the track. They have sealed bearings so they’ll never need lubrication.

Center Bearings

Center bearings are the component of a torsion system that support the center of the torsion tube as it turns the torsion spring.

- GOOD: Plastic center bearings are a single donut-shaped component through which the torsion tube is placed. Because it is a fixed unit, the torsion tube may rub on the plastic center bearing and cause wear.

- BEST: Sealed steel center bearings are the same donut shaped piece of steel with a second piece of steel placed within the donut, supported by small sealed bearings for independent movement. The fluid movement of the second piece of steel eliminates friction on the tube for smoother operation.

Torsion Springs

Torsion springs are mounted on a torsion tube above your garage door horizontally and are wound up to create torque, or tension. There are three different types of torsion springs: oil tempered, galvanized, and powder coated.

- GOOD: Oil tempered springs have the tendency to rust over time and can be noisy as the spring winds and unwinds.

- BETTER: Galvanized springs don’t rust but can corrode which leads to squeaking as the spring ages.

- BEST: Powdercoated springs will not rust or corrode because of the coating that protects them, leading to a longer lasting, quieter system.